Paradise Found

How do I even begin to describe our Salt Spring retreat? First, I’ll say that my fifty-fourth birthday was absolutely painless, and blessed with a thunderstorm that seems to be an annual event given that the same thing occurred in 2014, when I was awakened from my birthday nap by a flicker of lightning and subsequent boom! This year, the sun showed its face at dawn, then promptly ducked behind a glowering thunderhead. The sky was a more ominous colour each time I looked at it, and then came the rain. Ter and I stood on our little patio with our Motos set to “video” and each recorded a full minute of solid rain. Nature at its finest. Beautiful, majestic and inspiring.

That pretty well describes our short visit to the Island, too. I spent three whole days disinclined to do much more than explore the local bookshops and wait for the deer to show up every evening. Though I’d brought my blog log, I wrote not a word. I’d brought a novel, yet read nothing more than the Stonehouse welcome brochure. I’d packed my pencils and sketchbook, and they remained packed the whole time. The cameras got a lot of use, though—Mr. Moto on the road to/from, and the Canon for day trips. If not for the pictures, I might have dreamed the whole experience.

There’s not much to report on the outside, beyond trying to relate the grandeur of living in a palatial home overlooking Ganges Harbour and the smaller Gulf Islands. Honestly, the Stonehouse looks like a movie set, but it never felt cold or aloof. We arrived to find our host, Michael, in the midst of prepping for afternoon tea. The scent of baking shortbread met us at the door, and a citrus almond torte awaited to accommodate my gluten sensitivity. While Ter dealt with the formalities, I walked into the vaulted living room, hauled my jaw up off the floor, and thought, Julian would own a place like this (and probably does).

I realize now that any trouble I had relaxing into it was all my own doing. Not having been there before, neither Ter nor I had any idea what to expect or how to behave. It felt naughty to sneak out and use the kettle, as if we were breaking the rules and trespassing beyond the threshold of our room. By the end of our stay, however, we had surrendered to the house’s embrace and were roaming both house and grounds with impunity. I felt truly liberated for the first time in maybe forever. The routine was simple: wake up, make tea, watch the sun, get dressed, eat breakfast, watch the rain, go exploring, return for tea, go for dinner, watch the deer, take a bath, have tea, go to bed. No TV, no radio. The house is rigged for ambient music in every room, so we had tuneage, but no media except for updating our FB pages courtesy of free WiFi. There is a TV in the living room, but we didn’t bother.

Our daily outings took us to the northern tip of the island one day, and across it on another day (the lateral trip took maybe a half hour). Best word to apply to Salt Spring is “funky”. The bookshops are great, though – I actually bought myself a birthday present by a local author (local in that he’s from Toronto but lives on SSI) at Salt Spring Books, and had hoped to score a specific rarity at Black Sheep Books; otherwise my highlight of our exploration was discovery of a little café at the north end of the island. We walked the beach, collected a couple of oyster shells, then dropped in for tea and a phenomenally good slice of chocolate-orange olive oil cake. Maybe half a dozen other folks were sprinkled around the room, but a conversation in progress involved a heated debate between two locals on the grammatical breakdown of a single sentence: “Sean is passionately in love with Katherine.” Ter had to drag me away before I threw in my two cents. I may lead a sheltered life, for nowhere else have I encountered an argument on where the verb belongs.

Now that we’ve done it once, I think we’ve found our home away from home. Gone are the days when Vancouver revived us; the energy there is waaaaaaaay too crazy. It’s a little nutty in Ganges village, too, but for a different reason: we drove SSI from tip to tail and never met a traffic light!